Memories of a Summer Spent on Miyajima

⚠️ Note: About the Miyajima Underwater Fireworks Festival
This article is a record of my experience at the Miyajima Underwater Fireworks Festival, which I attended in the past (held before 2019).
The Miyajima Underwater Fireworks Festival was officially discontinued in 2021.
If you are planning a trip for fireworks, please make sure to check the latest information in advance.
The island’s charms beyond fireworks—Itsukushima Shrine, Mt. Misen, street food—remain just as enjoyable.

Quick Trip Notes

• Where: Miyajima (Itsukushima), Hiroshima Prefecture
• When: August, summer (back when the fireworks festival was held)
• Stay: Day trip
• With: A friend

How I Got There

From Hiroshima Station, I took the JR Sanyo Main Line to Miyajimaguchi Station (about 30 minutes). From there, I transferred to a ferry, which takes about 10 minutes to reach Miyajima. The route is simple, but on the day of the fireworks, it was already extremely crowded before noon.

📌 Approximate Transportation Costs (as of June 2026)
– JR Hiroshima Station → Miyajimaguchi Station: around ¥420 one-way
– Ferry (JR West Miyajima Ferry): ¥200 one-way
– Fares may change. Please check the official websites of JR West, Miyajima Matsudai Kisen, and JR West Miyajima Ferry for the latest prices.

What Kind of Island Is Miyajima?

Miyajima’s official name is Itsukushima, and it belongs to Hatsukaichi City in Hiroshima Prefecture. Since ancient times, it has been revered as an island where the gods dwell, and the entire island has long been an object of worship.

At its center stands Itsukushima Shrine, said to have been founded in 593 during the reign of Empress Suiko. After reconstruction by Taira no Kiyomori, it developed into the iconic shrine buildings that appear to float on the sea. It was registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in 1996.

The island’s symbol, the vermilion Great Torii Gate, appears to float on the sea at high tide, while at low tide you can walk right up to it. The dramatic change in scenery depending on the tide is one of Miyajima’s greatest attractions.

📌 Basic Information
– Official Name: Itsukushima
– Location: Miyajimacho, Hatsukaichi City, Hiroshima Prefecture
– Access: About 30 min by JR from Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi, then 10 min by ferry
– World Heritage: Itsukushima Shrine (registered in 1996)
– Miyajima Visitor Tax: Since October 1, 2023, visitors entering via ferry are charged ¥100

Deer, Fried Momiji, and the Rising Tide

I arrived on Miyajima in the early afternoon. As I wandered around the island, adorable deer kept coming up to greet me (be careful—if you’re holding food, they’ll come right at you!).

First, I grabbed the classic street snack: fried momiji. The crispy outside and warm, fluffy sweet bean paste inside were perfect—I felt like I could eat endless pieces.

In the evening, I headed near the Great Torii to secure a good spot for the fireworks. The torii glowing in the sunset was breathtaking, and I couldn’t stop snapping photos.

Then came an unexpected moment.
I underestimated Miyajima’s tides. While I was absorbed in taking photos, the water slowly rose, and before I knew it, my feet were soaking in seawater. Laughing with the other photographers, we grabbed our bags and hurriedly stepped back. It was a vivid reminder of nature’s power.

Underwater Fireworks and a Fiery Sprint

At night, the main event finally began. Fireworks thrown from boats exploded in half-circles on the water’s surface. When the silhouette of the Great Torii lit up brilliantly, it was a sight I’ll never forget.

Right after the fireworks ended, the real challenge began. I’d heard the ferry line could stretch past midnight, so there was no time to linger—we sprinted to the ferry terminal. Out of breath, we barely made it onto an earlier boat and escaped the worst of the crowds. Honestly, that desperate dash might be just as memorable as the fireworks themselves.

Notes for Future Visitors

• Timing: The fireworks festival is no longer held
• Getting Around: The island is mainly walkable. Itsukushima Shrine and Momijidani Park are recommended
• Budget: Transportation (around ¥1,500 round trip from Hiroshima) + food + Itsukushima Shrine admission (¥300) + Mt. Misen ropeway (about ¥2,000 round trip)
• Best Experience: Itsukushima Shrine at high tide. The vermilion shrine buildings floating on the sea look even more magical than in photos
• Good to Know: The torii’s appearance changes dramatically with the tide, so check the tide tables beforehand. Also check ferry schedules. Deer roam freely, so be careful with food and paper items.

Summary

Although the Miyajima Underwater Fireworks Festival is no longer held, the island’s charms—Itsukushima Shrine, Mt. Misen, street food—remain as strong as ever. The combination of the Great Torii and high tide, the stunning views from Mt. Misen, and even the thrill of getting your feet caught by the rising sea—Miyajima offers more than enough to enjoy even without fireworks.